All it takes is some fridge space, salt, and spices.
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The responsibility of cooking a turkey comes with a lot of decisions. Every year, I find myself asking questions like, what size of bird should I get? How long should I thaw it? Should I buy a fresh bird? How should I season it? How should I cook it?
To help answer at least the last of these questions, I asked four chefs how they roast the perfect holiday bird. I found myself in a situation more harmonious than a family dinner without any drama when all of the chefs agreed on the method.
The experts say dry brining is the way to go. But, first, here’s a bonus tip from Charla Draper, food writer and 15-year veteran of the Butterball Turkey Talk-Line: Every four pounds of turkey needs at least 24 hours to thaw. Planning accordingly, I’ll have a fully defrosted bird to dry brine before the big holiday.
The 4 Chefs I Asked
- Mary Payne Moran: Chef and owner of The Silver Lake Kitchen cooking school, creator of Hail Mary Food of Grace, and author of the children's book The Vita Gang Mysteries
- Jillian Hillier: Creator of Fare the Well and culinary professor at George Brown College
- Suzanne Pohaizer: Chef and owner of the former Salt Café in Montpelier, Vermont
- James Gallant: Chef and owner of Gather in Perth, Ontario
How To Roast the Best Turkey, According to Chefs
Dry brining is like a spa treatment for your bird, minus the cucumber slices on the eyes. The method involves rubbing the turkey with salt and seasonings, then letting it chill out—literally. Moran says it's as simple as leaving "the turkey uncovered in the refrigerator the night before your feast."
Dry brining meat changes its protein structure, causing it to release moisture. The meat then reabsorbs that salty liquid, leading to a juicy, tender, flavorful bird with what Hillier describes as “delectable, crispy skin.”
For her, one of the best things about dry brining is avoiding the challenges of a wet brine. The latter, she says, "requires you to keep the turkey submerged in the liquid for 24 to 72 hours,” which "can be darn near impossible if you're looking at a 20-pound turkey" when fridge space is at a premium.
With a dry brine, she explains, "You can have the turkey in a roasting pan or bowl uncovered in the fridge." Pohaizer echoes the sentiment. "The flavor is equally excellent, but with much less fuss," she agrees. She even admitted to using a blow-dryer to dry out her wet-brined turkeys in the past. Talk about a turkey salon experience!
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4 More Experts Tips for Making the Best Turkey This Thanksgiving
While dry brining may be the holy grail of turkey prep, the chefs shared further tips for making your turkey stand out.
1. The Heat Is On
Hillier suggests blasting the heat first, then going low and slow. "To get that golden crispy skin,” she advises, “sear the turkey first at 425°F. Then reduce the heat to 325°F for the remainder of the cooking time.”
Moran's technique is similar, though she also recommends basting "every hour until it reaches an internal temperature of 165°F." Gallant, favoring a hotter, faster roast, roasts his turkey at 450°F for about 75 to 80 minutes. To allow for a quicker cooking time, he spatchcocks his turkey and cooks it on a rack over a foil-lined baking sheet. It's like a turkey tanning booth—with delicious results.
2. Should You Spatchcock Your Turkey?
Spatchcocking, says Gallant, is much faster than a traditional roast and produces a crispier skin. Just be warned, you might need some heavy-duty tools—and someone who knows how to use them!
"While poultry shears work for a chicken, it's much tougher to spatchcock a turkey," he explains. He uses a drywall, or jab, saw to "cut right through the rib bones with no issues!" Who knew home improvement tools could be so helpful in the kitchen?
3. How To Season Your Bird
Gallant likes a two-to-one ratio of kosher salt and baking powder as his brine, rubbing it onto the bird the night before roasting. When it comes to the seasoning in the brine, "you can use any dry spices you like," says Hillier. "You'll need a hefty amount to cover the bird, so it's a great opportunity to use up some of the spices in your pantry."
Podhaizer prefers switching up her dry-brining mixture to suit her mood. She uses kosher salt and whatever herbs and spices she's feeling excited about. "Any of the classic 'poultry blend' herbs would be great," she elaborates, "and including minced garlic and citrus zest can also be nice." After the bird’s stint in the fridge, Moran likes rubbing it with room temperature, unsalted butter to give it extra-luxe flavor, moisture, and golden brown skin.
4. Wait to Carve It
No matter how you cook it, Hillier emphasizes the importance of resting your bird. "Large roasts, like a roasted turkey, should rest for 25 to 30 percent of their cooking time. This helps the juices redistribute throughout the meat, leading to a more juicy and tender bird."
Ultimately, the secret to the perfect roast turkey isn't a secret at all. Whether you opt for a slow roast or a quick-fire tan, a traditional presentation or a tool-reliant spatchcock, remember: A well-rested, dry-brined turkey is a delicious turkey. Now, let’s move on to the side dishes!
